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A Moving Tribute: Visiting the János Esterházy Pilgrimage Center in Slovakia

Dániel Deme 2024.06.22.

In between the magic hills of the Zobor region, among ancient villages founded by the kings of the Hungarian Árpád-house, lies the resting place of one of our greatest Hungarian politicians and martyrs of the twentieth century, Count János Esterhazy. The pilgrimage center is not only a memorial place for the local politician, who perished as a prisoner of the Chechoslovak communist regime in 1957, but also a memorial for the victims of communism from the Visegrad 4 countries, Slovakia, Hungary, Czechia and Poland.

The ongoing works on the Esterhazy memorial in Dolné Obdokovce (Alsóbodok) started some decades ago by local businessman, Boldizsár Paulisz. A visionary patriot, who set out to grant Esterhzázy his dying wish, to be buried in the soil of his homeland. After the death of Mr. Paulisz in 2018, his son, Marián, has taken over the stewardship of the center.

Entrance to the Museum of the János Esterházy Pilgrimage Center. Photo: Hungary Today

The pilgrimage center covers its running costs from a mixture of small grants, visitor’s fees collected through summer camps, conferences, school trips, organized groups, donations, and its restaurant that hosts private events. However, a large part of the costs are drawn from the Paulisz family’s private resources. Their goal is to make the center self-sustaining by 2030. Entrance to the memorial and the grave though is free of charge, the gates to the crypt remain open 24/7.

János Esterházy Pilgrimage Center. Photo: Hungary Today

There is a small museum at the entrance to the private park containing artifacts belonging or related to Esterházy. Some are recent artworks, some are local finds and donations from private collectors, but the most important ones come from a donation from Alice Esterházy-Malfatti, daughter of Count Esterházy.

János Esterházy Pilgrimage Center. Photo: Hungary Today

János Esterházy Pilgrimage Center. Photo: Hungary Today

The collection contains precious personal items such as Esterházy’s glasses, his prayer books, or the only item that the Mírov prison administration had returned to his family after his death, a rosary made out of paper (center left).

János Esterházy Pilgrimage Center. Photo: Hungary Today

János Esterházy Pilgrimage Center. Photo: Hungary Today

The mausoleum is a shared resting place of the Paulisz family and that of the remains of János Esterházy, as local authorities at the time would not allow the construction of a dedicated memorial to the Hungarian politician.

János Esterházy Pilgrimage Center. Photo: Hungary Today

The large and well maintained park around the mausoleum contains a number of memorials to the victims of communism, among them that of the Polish catholic priest, Jerzy Popiełuszko, murdered by the secret police in 1984.

János Esterházy Pilgrimage Center. Photo: Hungary Today

The grave of Count Esterházy is inside an artificial cave, containing the ashes collected from a mass-grave in Mírov prison. The ashes were given to the Paulisz family by the Hungarian politician’s daughter, after Esterházy’s home village in nearby Veľké Zálužie (Nyitraújlak) had refused permission to bury the politician’s remains there. Representatives of nearby villages have therefore brought small quantities of soil to host his ashes buried behind the altar.

János Esterházy Pilgrimage Center. Photo: Hungary Today

The mausoleum, also built by Boldizsár Paulisz, contains an altar, where services are held by the pilgrims and local clergy.

János Esterházy Pilgrimage Center. Photo: Hungary Today

The dome of the mausoleum contains the national emblems of all Visegrad four countries as a symbol of János Esterházy’s ties to all of them.

Fact

Count János Esterházy (Nyitraújlak, 1901, Mírov, contemporary Czechia, 1957) was the most important Hungarian martyr politician of the 20th century. His mother, Elżbieta Tarnowska, was a Polish countess, his father, János Mihály Esterházy, belonged to the Galanta branch of the Esterházy family. He attended grammar school and the commercial academy in Budapest. In 1924 he married Countess Lívia Serényi, the marriage resulted in two children, János and Alice.
He began his public career in the mid-1920s, opposing ‘Czechoslovakism’, which included the repression of Hungarians. In 1932, he became President of the National Christian Socialist Party. He was elected to the Czechoslovak Parliament in the 1935 elections in Kosice (Kassa).
In 1936, the United Hungarian Party was founded, of which he became acting chairman. After the First Vienna Award in 1938, he founded the Slovakian Hungarian Party that rejected the ideas and policies of National Socialism. On 15 May 1942, as a member of the Slovak Parliament, Esterházy was the only one to abstain in the vote on the expulsion of Jewish citizens.
After the Soviet troops pushed the Germans out of Slovakia, the Soviet authorities interned him, but he was released after 12 days. On the orders of Slovak communist leader, Gustáv Husák, he was arrested and handed over to the Soviet secret service. He was sentenced to ten years’ hard labour on trumped-up charges and sent to the Gulag camp in Siberia. On 16 September 1947, the Slovak National Court sentenced him to death for his alleged “collaboration” with fascism. The Soviet authorities extradited him to Czechoslovakia in 1949, but later he received a life sentence through a presidential pardon. He was held in prison in Czechoslovakia until his death on 8 March 1957 in Mírov prison in Moravia. The prison commandant refused to release his body to the family.
His daughter, Alice Esterházy-Malfatti, has been trying to have János Esterházy rehabilitated in Slovakia since November 1989. This has not yet been achieved. In 1993, the Russian Supreme Court annulled Esterházy’s conviction and rehabilitated him. However, this has not happened in the Czech Republic and Slovakia to date, and he remains officially a war criminal.

On 16 September 2017, his remains were laid to rest in the Chapel of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross in Dolné Obdokovce (Alsóbodok). In November 2018, the Vatican authorized the initiation of his beatification, which is being carried out by the Archdiocese of Krakow.

Memorial Service for Political Martyr, János Esterházy
Memorial Service for Political Martyr, János Esterházy

János Esterházy was the active protector of the Hungarian minority of Slovakia.Continue reading

Featured Image: Hungary Today


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